Much more bold to form and usually with larger flowers and longer stems than the mum plants in the shorter response groups, these late bloomer plants are highly prized and require the ultimate of care. They are the plants that are proudly displayed at flower shows, and their gardeners will go to great lengths to nurture them to their absolute bloom potential. They are usually grown in gardens where the protection from frost is provided or in pots that can be moved to sheltered areas.
Two extremely popular classes for exhibition are the spiders and incurves. The spiders are the most unusual and interesting and the incurves can produce the largest of all mum flowers. But many other classes are also grown for display in flower shows.
In addition, gardeners will often train chrysanthemum plants in cascade, bonsai, or specimen forms. Cascades are trained on a U-shaped wire frame about 4 feet long and bent at a 45-degree angle. As the plant grows you need to pinch out side shoots to encourage the growth of the main stem. Gradually you bend the frame to the horizontal and finally vertical so the flowers form a cascade. The bonsai chrysanthemums are trained by pruning and using a wire wrapped around the stems to shape them in the same manner as tree and shrub bonsai. The plants at flowering time are usually 10 inches high and 12-13 inches wide. Specimen plants are often grown to cover a wire form in the shape of a figure, such as a glove, a peacock or a vertical triangular shape similar to a Christmas tree.
Growing in the Ground. Late bloomers need all, and sometimes more, care that is lavished on the earlier bloomers. The maximum spacing between plants needs to be provided, along with a restriction of two stems per plant for the large bloom types of mums. The bush types are trained to produce from three to six sprays. Many growers will install a frame of pipe or redwood around this type of chrysanthemum plant; when it is needed, the frame will support a frost cover or a dark shading cloth.
Growing in Pots. Many gardeners or growers of the late bloomers will try to concentrate on a small number of plants and to cultivate them in pots – sometimes above the ground, and sometimes below. If the pots are aboveground, a support should be used to prevent them from blowing over. Pots will give the gardener greater control in that they can be turned periodically to prevent the blooms from leaning to one side or another, and during rainy spells they can be moved to a sheltered area. If the pots are below ground, they can easily be lifted out for moving.
Normally, the individually potted plants are transplanted twice as they grow to maturity – from a 2-to 3-inch pot to a 4-inch model and finally to a larger 7- or 8-inch pot. Sometimes plants can be transplanted directly from the smallest pot to a 7- or 8- inch pot if steps are taken to prevent a waterlogged pot. The large pot will need a mulch of peat moss; this will discourage the weeds and conserve moisture. Many flower shows will accept only potted plants and they must be grown the entire season in pots.
About the Author:
Barbara E. Volkov and her husband Gene are a retired couple who enjoys the at home time and also tinkering around in the garden. We are always learning new things to do for our garden and enjoy sharing the information with others. Come visit our website www.gardenersgardensupplies.com for more interesting tidbits on gardening.
Article Source: ArticlesBase.com – Chrysanthemums – Part 1- 9 to 12 Week Response Group
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